One of the amazing things that we notice is the contrast between public and private and between places of commerce and residential. Our area is very residential and peaceful. Ten minutes away in Shibuya – which is one of the biggest train stations in Tokyo, the area is far different. In our neighborhood you can hear a pin drop; in Shibuya you cannot hear your phone ring. The same society that has signs in the subway to not use the cell phone and to be quiet and respect your fellow riders has the most obnoxious noise in its commercial areas – one’s ears get assaulted every time you venture near an electronic store. Many stores have employees with megaphones outside to yell about the newest product.
The smells are quite different in the public and private. The Japanese have been rather successful at getting smokers to smoke only at designated spots and not to walk and smoke at the same time. This means that even though more folks smoke here than in America you do not have to be near the smoke when outside. The restaurants are still unpredictable at separating the smokers – some do a better job and some do nothing. The enjoyable smells have to do with food preparation. There are more French bakeries in Tokyo then you could ever imagine and it is quite enjoyable to be near one. The other night while walking home I could tell that a neighbor was preparing an Italian feast – too bad I did not have an invitation for dinner.
The residential areas are very clean and tidy while the more commercial area have trash – not as much as in US cities perhaps, but very visible litter none the less. Unlike the US I commonly see someone cleaning the public area outside an establishment – sometimes with a broom sometimes with a mop, and sometimes with a steam cleaner. However, yesterday while walking down the street a 20 year old in front of me threw his cigarette package – presumably empty - into a flower pot and then walked into a fast food store to talk with a friend. Public garbage cans may not be as readily available as in US cities – but this was still quite surprising.
What few public garbage cans exist are often overfilled, especially in the parks and gardens, with litter on the ground due to lack of space. Once again if it is a free public space the area tends to be poorly tended. I find it odd that parks in NYC and Washington DC are nicer than ones in Tokyo. The areas set aside for children are really disappointing. Usually the ground is dirt – which of course turns to mud in the rain. I have been to what are described as the better playgrounds for children in Tokyo and I have not been impressed. Very little attention is paid to make the area welcoming – these are not spots that invite you to stay for long periods. In contrast to the roads which are overmaintained – the parks are ignored and it shows.
The food available in Tokyo is overwhelming. I’m certain that we could eat out every night for the next year and still not sample all the food within a 15-minute walk of our apartment. Down the street we have Portugese and Italian. Several blocks away is one of the best French restaurants in Tokyo. The noodle shops are too numerous to count – with the plastic food outside to help you see what is offered. The only problem with eating out -- besides the language problem of knowing what you are getting – is the serving size. The servings are often too small for our children. This really encourages you to order an appetizer and dessert and thus turns most dinners into a larger bill than you might expect from just looking at the prices on the menu. The only places where we find larger portions are the noodle shops.
The biggest change for us is buying food at a department store. Most department stores have restaurants on one or two of the upper floors. In addition most have food emporiums in the basement where you can purchase numerous types of prepared food. (The odd part is that you are not supposed to eat in public – so the only way to eat these selections is to either go to a park for a picnic – or take them home.) In addition the large Tokyu (that is the correct spelling) store at Shibuya has a regular grocery as well as a prepared food section. I would love to purchase more at this store but fighting my way through the crowds is rather difficult. Shibuya has the largest public crossing in Tokyo – that is the most number of people crossing the street every 3 minutes. The crowds have to be seen to be believed. This works in Tokyo since very few people jaywalk.
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